Unlike the headboard ideas in the series Seriously Cheap and Easy Headboard Decorations (Part 1, Part 2, Part 3, Part 4), this DIY headboard fits the more conventional definition of a headboard. It can stand as a piece of furniture behind the head of the bed. Best of all, it’s easy to make and easy on the wallet.

Completed DIY wooden headboard

The Inspiration

While browsing around on the ‘net, I came across a fabulous piece of furniture. This dresser features varied wood details and paint designs. I believe it’s from a line by Click to visit this external linkPro Deco out of Poland. (I’d love a confirmation of this. The image is from an anonymous file storage website.)

The Parts

This headboard requires 3 pieces of wood, a few wood screws, some wood stain and a sealant. Other items you may already have at hand: fine sandpaper or sand block, narrow paint brush or disposable sponge brush, screwdriver (hopefully electric) or drill.

I chose the main board piece specifically for the design. The lines in the wood give a contemporary look while the natural dents and dings lend more to the rustic look.

The main board resembles the lines in teak.

The main board is ¾” x 12″ x 48″. It’s official name is paint grade edge-glued wood panel and the cost runs between $7 and $9 for this size. The upright pieces are simple pine and are ¾” x 6″ x 48″.

The wood stain I chose is by Olympic. I used a combination of their One Step and Gel Stain products. Fortunately, the cost was very low because I was able to find a large lot of stain samples. The samples are small packets holding only 0.07 fl. oz. of stain. Each packet was just enough to cover a 1 to 1½” section of the main board.

The stain colors include Cherry, Early American, Traditional Walnut Satin, Colonial Oak and Honey Oak Satin. If memory serves correctly, I also used Maple, Ebony and Mahogany. I even mixed a couple of colors together.

The Steps

A light sanding and dusting is all that’s needed for preparation of the wood pieces. Now is a good time to confirm measurements as well.

Next is the staining. The biggest task is to decide on a freehand look or a straight line look. The lines of the main board provide a natural border to follow when brushing on the stain. I found freehanding worked best, giving a more natural and casual look. Slightly overlapping the brush borders gave darkened lines between each stain section, adding even greater detail. After a good staining, I lightly sanded the wood then layered a couple of coats of a standard varnish for protection and sheen.

The construction is quite straightforward. Attach the 6″ upright piece to the back of the main board. For a full size bed, a good position for the upright is about 12″ from the edge and 1″ from the top of the main board. Three screws in a zig-zag pattern is sufficient to keep the headboard sturdy.

The results and caveats

The resulting headboard is a piece of furniture that helps to complete the room and is a piece I can take pride in. Although it’s not attached to the wall or the bed itself, the headboard stays in place nicely. A couple of stick-on bumpers on the back have helped to squelch the occasional bump against the wall.

I found that for the normal height bed, my headboard height is a bit too much. However, the initial plan was to put the bed on risers. That would have the bed and headboard at complementary heights. Without risers, the headboard should be at least 8″ lower (use upright pieces of 36″ instead of 48″).